Your Tesla is an unusually quiet car, and you may hear some sounds that would normally be masked by a loud ICE engine or are just different due to the design of the car. Most sounds are normal, but some sounds may indicate additional actions are necessary. We’ll do our best to separate the normal from the abnormal and how the problems are corrected. While there are a lot of possible problem cases, these are rare and most owners never have any of the problem sounds. (Aug-2022 update)
First is our list of Normal sounds, first compiled for the Model S, but also occur in similar locations on Model X, Model 3, and Model Y.
1a. HVAC condenser fans – There are fans in the front of the car that help cool the HVAC condenser. These should not be heard inside the car but will be heard as a fan whirring noise from the front of the car when the fans are running at maximum speed. This sound sample is from the front of the car, with HVAC running about 50% (at 100% it is quite a bit louder).
1b Light buzzing for 5- 30 seconds – The air suspension compressor may be leveling or adjusting the vehicle level. This can occur even when the car is off on occasion.
1b Woosh of air occurs infrequently – The air suspension compressor will occasionally release a burst of pressurized air to regenerate the dehumidifier. The sound lasts about 1 second and is normal for the vehicle to make this noise on occasion. It may occur after the suspension compressor stops.
2a. HVAC Compressor – This makes a kind of mechanical whine from the front of the car and may change in pitch. The compressor is a variable speed design, meaning it runs faster and makes more noise when the system needs maximum cooling. This is one sound that you rarely notice on ICE cars (due to engine noise). You can often hear it when you are outside the car and it is running hard on a hot day and you are supercharging. The HVAC compressor runs to cool the battery as well as the cabin, so even if Climate is turned off, you may still hear this noise. Tesla now includes a sound blanket on new cars, but old cars (2012-2013) may not have this. If you find it annoying, Service can add it to your car. Even with this change, you may hear the noise when the HVAC is running at maximum power. While driving, once the cabin is cooled off, the sound will disappear. This recording was made at max AC, but the fan was first set to low so you can hear the compressor slow down without the fan noise that usually hides it.
2b. Short Rattle from Front Drive Shaft – Lasts about 1 second on AWD performance versions (S and X) and may vibrate the car slightly, when the suspension is on very high and apply hard acceleration. Keeping the suspension on Normal or low should avoid this.
3. Tire noise – Like any car, tires generate some noise when driving. Typically, this is heard at about 15 MPH to 35 MPH. Above a certain speed, other noises like the wind may exceed the tire noise. On some very poor roads, the noise can be quite loud (as it will be in any car on the same road). This sound sample is at 35 mph on a medium rough road.
4. Minor Wind noise – As you get to higher speeds, like any car, some wind noise can be heard. It should not be very loud if all the windows are closed and the pano roof is closed.
5. Rumble for 1 second – This is the warning sound when the car senses you are going outside the lane. This is only available on Auto-pilot cars when the Lane departure warning option is turned on. Some local roads with poor lane markings may trigger the warning unexpectedly.
6a. Minor Motor/Inverter noise – You may hear the whine of the motor/inverter, in which the pitch directly changes with speed. On RWD cars, most owners cannot hear this at all. On AWD cars, it may be noticeable from the front motor, as it is closer to the cabin.
If the noise is from the rear motor, check if the parcel shelf is open or closed. When partly open (or missing), you may hear a little more noise. In all cases, it shouldn’t be annoying.
6b. Hushed whirring sound from the passenger left vent, even when the car is off (cars after October 2016 with AP2). The fans on the AP2 processor unit behind the dash are running and will turn off in about a minute after the normal vehicle shutdown.
6c. Clunk under M3 – No consistent reason, but more likely when going through temperature extremes while driving. Although unsettling, we believe it is caused by the large metal battery pack. While this doesn’t occur on the S/X, the new M3 pack is built differently.
7. Whirring when switching out of park or into park for 1 second from the rear, and may be accompanied by a mechanical click. Usually cannot be heard inside the car with the windows/sunroof closed. This is the normal operation of the rear parking brakes. They are electrically operated and screw closed or open depending on the desired state. Sometimes the calipers stick to the rotor (also quite normal) and when switching from park to drive/reverse they will snap into place. Sometimes a slight forward or rear motion causes the release after the parking brake was engaged for a while.
8. Engine Noises or Backfires – Likely you’re traveling next to an obnoxious loud ICE vehicle. Suggest converting more consumers to EVs!
1a. HVAC Condenser Fan screech, chirping, or fast tappet sound when winding down (powering off) – This may indicate a bad fan bearing. Service should evaluate and repair if necessary. The sound sample first hears the fan (normal) before the climate is shut off so you can hear the screech of the condenser fan as it winds down.
1b. Lion type growl from the left or right front – If the car is started, the aerodynamic radiator shutters on the left and right sides activate in about 10 seconds in some conditions. Normally these make no sound, but if they make a 2-second growl, they should be attended to. Not a serious issue, but have service repair the bad shutter.
1c. Mild vibration and related noise at higher speeds (50+ mph), Refresh Model S only – The front license plate is attached with two screws and adhesive. While rare, if the adhesive breaks loose, the license plate holder will flap against the bumper at higher speeds. Remove the plate holder or have a Tesla service reattach. For removal, Tesla uses special security screws, so angled long-nose pliers are required or this tool.
2. Windshield Wiper chatter in light rain. This is usually caused by the application of a window sealant like Aquapel or RainX. Removing Aquapel or RainX once applied is quite difficult. The best fix is to switch the blades to a Bosch replacement blade.
3. Squeak when pressing the brake pedal – the brake power booster may need replacement.
4. Mechanical Whirring noise inside the dash that occurs whenever the car is powered. It may be one of the fans in the main display is failing and has a bad bearing. The sound likely changes no matter if the climate is on or off, or the temperature is cold or hot. These should be silent.
4. Dash minor buzzing near the main display for cars with ambient lighting. Check if the sound disappears when you turn off ambient lighting. If so, set screen brightness above 70% or turn off ambient lighting. It is unknown if Tesla has a fix for older cars that exhibit this noise. Usually, if the climate is on, you can’t hear it, so it’s rather minor for most owners that encounter it.
5. Dash creaking and crackling sounds usually when driving over bumps – You may be able to stop the sounds by pressing on the top of the dash. This may be caused by the dash rubbing on the A-pillar. Contact service. There is a service bulletin to correct this issue.
6. Dash flapping sound only at higher speeds and road bumps do not cause the sound. The cabin air filter may not be secure. The service center can correct this.
7. Dash clunk noise only when turning – Check if your J1772 adapter or something else is rolling around the glove box. Also, check for items in the cubby below the main display.
8a. Steering in hard turn causes clicking/popping – This is caused by an oversized bolt that may need replacement. Tesla’s service can easily fix this. It is not considered a safety issue.
8b. Squeaking Brake pedal – A brake fluid flush may be required. Contact Service.
9. Loud Wind noise at higher speeds – First confirm all the Windows are fully rolled up and the pano roof is closed. If you still get loud wind noise, it may be a window or door seal is not perfect. You almost need to test drive another car to tell if it’s normal or perhaps something that needs to be corrected.
10. Intermittent ticking sound from under the front driver’s seat – A design change was made where the rivet size changed, and over time and vibration, some seats end up make a ticking sound. A seat bottom replacement is needed if this is the case.
11. Creaks from the B pillars when going over bumps – Some older cars built in 2012 or 2013 may develop this issue. Tesla’s service can fix this.
12a. Helicopter chop noise at one wheel location – usually starts above 20 MPH and varies with speed and you feel the car vibrate. The noise is louder with the Windows open. This is often a bad wheel bearing.
12b. Grinding metal noise from one wheel – A pebble may have gotten trapped between the rotor and the backing plate. While not serious, service will need to remove the pebble.
12. Worn Tire noise – When the tires get to the end of life, the wear bars will make a noise that directly relates to speed, a sort of slapping sound. The noise is louder with the Windows open. The tires need to be replaced (not a warranty item).
13. Knocking sounds both still or moving when the car is on. The air suspension supply could be contaminated with moisture/ambient air and the system needs to be evacuated and refilled with nitrogen. This is a service item.
14. Motor whine/milling sound – This can be a loud whine that gets louder over time. The sound frequency changes with speed, but usually doesn’t get louder with speed. This can be caused by a problem with the reduction gear (rare), or more commonly a bad bearing. Tesla will likely need to repair the drive unit. Some noise from the front motor in AWD cars is normal. For the bearing issue, the noise only occurs when power is applied. During regen, it immediately disappears. This recording is from the car going from 0 to 25 mph over 10 seconds. The noise is not really objectionable yet in this S85.
14. Rear clunk noise when transitioning between power and regen. This may be a bad wheel bearing, a motor mount, or slack in the gearbox. Tesla’s service will need to evaluate and fix.
14. Rear hum that gets louder with acceleration or speed and louder over time. This is typically coming from the inverter (attached to the motor) and the drive unit may need repair.
15. Rear clunk noise only when starting a turn – Check if you have something rolling around in the rear trunk well like the J1772 adapter or other power adapters.
16. Loud Low-frequency pulsing sound from the rear at some speeds with a window open – The rear hatch is misadjusted, and it is being buffeted by airflow. The service center can easily fix this with a minor adjustment.
17a. Tire/Wheel Well rubbing sounds when backing up, turning sharply and suspension on high – The tire may rub on the wheel well liner. It may be fixable, but you’ll need to bring the car into service. The clearance is very tight under this combination.
17b. Rattle/Squeak starts at moderate speeds – Possible a rock has lodged between the fender liner and the main HV battery and makes noise under vibration. Contact service to fix.
17c. Thumping during acceleration – The front driveshaft may be defective. Contact service to fix.
18a. Pano Roof cracking/creaking sounds – mostly random while driving. One report had two screws in the cross-bar protruding just enough to cause noise on the glass. The service center can correct this.
18b. Thump from the battery, Model 3 only – while Supercharging or changing altitude. This is caused by air pressure changes in the battery and is not harmful. Tesla has a service bulletin (SB-19-16-010) to upgrade the battery breathers that equalize the pressure quicker and quieter if this bothers you. Only for Model 3 built after April 22, 2018.
19. Headache-inducing drone or nagging sounds from the back or side of the car – Usually caused by Mother-in-law or spouse. There is no easy fix short of divorce. As a temporary fix, increase the stereo volume level to 10 or 11.